Screens35–50 minModerate

iPhone OLED screen replacement

Full teardown-to-test sequence for soft-OLED and FHD incell iPhone displays, including True Tone transfer and sensor migration.

What you need

  • Hot plate or heat gun (60–70°C)
  • Pentalobe P2 and Y000 drivers
  • Nylon spudger + thin opening picks
  • Suction cup / iSclack
  • True Tone programmer (JC or QianLi)
  • IPA 99% and lint-free wipes

Step by step

  1. 01

    Discharge below 25%

    A low state of charge cuts thermal risk if the cell is nicked while the panel is out.

  2. 02

    Remove the two pentalobe screws

    Bottom edge, either side of the charging port. Keep them separate — they are shorter than the internal screws.

  3. 03

    Heat the perimeter to 60–70°C

    Two minutes on a hot plate, or 90 seconds with a heat gun on low. Never exceed 80°C near an OLED panel.

  4. 04

    Cut the adhesive and open like a book

    Lift from the model's correct hinge edge so the display flex is never stretched.

    Opening from the wrong edge tears the display flex — an instant write-off on the donor panel, and your True Tone data with it.

  5. 05

    Disconnect the battery first

    Battery, then display, then digitiser. Reverse the order on reassembly.

  6. 06

    Transfer sensors and brackets as one unit

    Earpiece mesh, proximity/flood assembly and the metal back plate all move to the new panel together. Face ID is paired to the phone — the original flex must survive.

  7. 07

    Copy True Tone before discarding the donor

    Read the ambient light calibration from the old flex with a programmer, then write it to the new panel.

  8. 08

    Test before sealing

    Boot, sweep touch across every edge, check brightness, True Tone, Face ID and the earpiece — then, and only then, adhesive.

  9. 09

    Clean, adhere, clamp

    Strip all old adhesive, wipe the lip with IPA 99%, fit the pre-cut perimeter adhesive from the box and clamp for 20 minutes.

What goes wrong, and the fix

Green or pink tint after boot

Low-grade panel or an out-of-spec driver IC. Not field-fixable — fit a soft-OLED panel with an original-spec driver.

Ghost touch / phantom swipes

Reseat the digitiser flex, refit the EMI shield plate and its foam, and never route the flex over a screw boss.

True Tone missing

The calibration lives on the donor flex. Transfer it with a programmer before the old panel leaves the bench.

Edges lift within weeks

Old adhesive residue left in the frame. Strip it fully, degrease with IPA, then clamp the new adhesive for 20 minutes.

Questions techs ask

Soft OLED or hard OLED?
Soft, flexible OLED with an original-spec touch IC — the same construction as the factory panel, so no colour shift or bezel gap.
Is adhesive included?
Every screen ships with model-specific pre-cut perimeter adhesive, an anti-static sleeve and an install-guide QR card.
What voids the warranty?
Physical damage, liquid ingress and burnt flex connectors. Panel defects, dead pixels and touch faults are covered for 12 months.

Parts for this repair

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